Choco Masters: The Passion found through Desserts, a Conversation with Chef Jesús Escalera

How would you describe yourself on a professional and personal level?

I’m Jesús Escalera, a pastry chef. I consider myself an emotional person, deeply influenced by that aspect. If there’s something I don’t like, I don’t do it, but likewise, if something really moves me, I dive into it headfirst like a “Kamikaze”.

Why do you consider yourself a “dessert chef” and not a “pastry chef or chocolatier”?

Because I have dedicated most of my life to being a pastry chef focused on plated desserts.

Why dessert chef and not savory chef?

I got into cooking almost by accident because I didn’t know what to do with my life. I started without intending to, as I didn’t come from a cooking family. Because of skipping classes, I ended up with a counselor, and during one of the sessions, I saw a gastronomy class, so I decided to study cooking. In Spain, there is no specific culinary degree; instead, there’s a vocational training cycle.

Pastry wasn’t my passion initially because it was very precise and meticulous, but I was assigned to the pastry department at my first job, and gradually I delved into that world. The opportunity arose when I could do my internships, and I chose the pastry kitchen. It was at the hotel where I worked that I tried a pepper ice cream, and it blew my mind, which is why I gave sweets a chance.

What are the flavors that marked the different stages of your life?

More than a flavor, it’s a dish: rice pudding. Because of the warmth it brings me. As you evolve and grow, you create many flavor memories.

How did you cope with the year 2020? What word defined that year for you?

I would describe it as a challenge because it was a challenge for everyone, really. It was something that no one expected, and when times are tough, creativity emerges. We had to come up with new ways to continue with the business. We created digital recipe books to share a little piece of the culinary world. That helped us sustain our business and reached many countries. Amidst the desperation, the pandemic has brought about new ways of doing our work.

What is your main challenge for this year, both personally and professionally?

To diversify our courses: barista training, mixology, etc. We want to become greener; we aim to develop online consultancy services for gastronomy businesses and expand in Hong Kong. Wherever I go, I go with República del Cacao.

How do you conceive your new desserts? What is the process from conceptualization to the final plate?

There are different ways. Personally, my ideas and inspiration are not very structured. I start with an ingredient and give it prominence in the elaborations. It can also be environments, like a forest, focusing on aromas and flavors that remind you of that environment or landscape. I also reinterpret based on other creations, giving credit to their creators. Teamwork is very important, with those who share the same philosophy.

How was your process of adaptation to the Mexican market? What were the most significant challenges you had to face in this transition?

It required humility. I arrived in Mexico 10 years ago at the age of 25. Upon arriving in this country, I had to break down barriers and use ingredients with which I was not comfortable before, which led to a cultural blend that enriched my knowledge and techniques.

What sets República del Cacao apart from other chocolate brands you’ve tried?

The added value of knowing it’s a true chain, the social support, and the meaningful production they carry out, so the raw material doesn’t feel disconnected.

Could you tell us about your experience at our collection center in Vinces?

Anyone interested in pastry or agronomy should have this experience where they see the entire chain to realize the importance of the product.

How did your vocation as a teacher, teaching culinary techniques, and developing recipes for the general public come about?

Well, it arose because I didn’t have it. Therefore, when I got into pastry, I didn’t understand when certain things happened. Over time, I realized that certain aspects of pastry weren’t well understood. Suddenly, when you understand how pastry works, it becomes intuitive, and I think that was the spark to start teaching classes, and then gradually we did it more for external people.

What is your relationship like with your community?

We are very clear that at the team level, no matter how interesting an idea is or how cool a dish is, if there isn’t a team behind it, it doesn’t serve any purpose. A team of people who are passionate about what they do, that’s the main factor. Experience doesn’t matter as much because at «La Postrería» we are going to teach them, and everyone should enjoy what they do. It feels great to give them that confidence and see the new proposals that arise from it. Another important point is the customer; they are a guest because they come to your home, and you have to treat them well.

Do you think it’s important for chefs to develop models of positive impact in their business model?

Yes, I consider it important. Gender equality is something I consider logical and necessary to achieve. Or what is always said about “buying local”, that’s also logical, starting first with your team or at home, starting with those small things because that will be the first wave. We started with our team of 20 people, and when those 20 people start their own businesses in the future, they will have the same practices, and it’s something expansive.